quinta-feira, 28 de fevereiro de 2013

Dolce & Gabbana Outono/Inverno 2013/2014

Domenico Dolce e Stefano Gabbana foram buscar parte da sua ispiração para esta colecção a Secília, a ilha da máfia italiana. Mas não só. Nesta colecção podemos ver os mosaicos venezianos e bizantinos de Montreal com o glamour do dourado e bordado: vestidos a traçar delicadamente as linhas do corpo a alguns centímetros acima do tornozelo, ou que foram cortados de forma bem curta.

As palavras-chave para esta colecção são sem dúvida dourado e ornamentos.

ough, was only the beginning, as the designers took us on a journey that went northward to Rome to the era of Fellini and Cinecittà. Not just in the look of the bella figura double-peplum jackets and hourglass dresses, cut from a salt-and-pepper herringbone tweed; the show’s sound track was from the director’s musical collaborator, Nino Rota. (Incidentally, if you think that tweed appears a tad substantial weightwise, don’t worry; on a preview of the collection a couple of days ago, a curtain was whipped away, and lighter versions are all ready to go.) From there, it seems we journeyed far westward to the New World, to Hollywood, alighting at the set of Alfred Hitchcock’s North by Northwest and Marnie, with tweedy check clutch coats and abbreviated A-line dresses. Then, like Dorothy clicking her sparkling ruby slippers and chanting, “There’s no place like home,” we were back in Sicily, with a gorgeous closing finale of a multitude of evening dresses worked in red lace, though not one that was long, many encrusted with gemstones.

What came through the strongest in these was the sense of how to elevate day clothes, which have been missing in action—and much missed, too—in these past few weeks of shows. Still, things weren’t too practical and workaday. Accessories lent an element of fantasy, with crown headpieces that were part saint, part principessa, huge cross earrings, and delightfully playful shoes, that variously incorporated rich papal purple or cardinal red velvet, baroque carved platforms, and golden cage heels entwined with little floral buds. All in all, an upbeat and uplifting way to approach the end of the Milan season. - See more at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/fall-2013-rtw/mdgabbana/review/#sthash.jL2tYGdA.dpuf